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A visit to Copenhagen, November 2019

I travelled alone to Copenhagen in November 2019, which feels like an age ago now, not least because we’ve been trapped inside for most of the time since. My return flight from London set me back only £20 – I suspect the era of dirt-cheap flights (perhaps for the better, climate wise) is well and truly gone now with the social-distancing / testing requirements likely to be in place in the post-covid travel-sphere.

Anyway, eulogies to budget-travel aside, here are a few photos from my time in Copenhagen and some quick tips should you end up over there yourself.

First up is a photo of some excellent Smørrebrød (Open Sandwich) that I bought from a stall in Torvehallen, which is a wonderful covered food-market.

danish open sandwich with pickled salmon
Pickled Salmon Smørrebrød from the Torvehallen market in Copehagen

From the outside, the Copehagen Royal Library is an imposing black mass that gives nothing away to what might lay beneath the facade. However, once inside expect to find a beautifully constructed library with a cafe overlooking the river, and an elevator that, the journey on gives you an excellent opportunity to take in your surroundings.

copenhagen royal library
The view from atop the escalator in the Copenhagen Royal Library

For the next stop in my tour of Copenhagen, which was to Vor Frelsers Kirke (translating as Church of Our Saviour), a church with a winding climb to the top of the spire. There’s a small fee to climb the Church (about 35 krone when I visited in 2019) but the climb and the view throughout is worth the small outlay. I’m going to go with two photos for my visit to the church, one of the inside of the building as you climb, and one the view as both are worth your while.

danish church stairs
The centuries old interior of Vor Frelsers Kirke
view from danish church
The view from Vor Frelsers Kirke, showcasing the winding nature of the climb.

My next visit was to Christiana, an area of Copenhagen that – much like the UK – is outside of EU rules (this is made clear in an archway as you enter). As a result, you’ll find many purveyors of cannabis in the main street – I found that they kept to this area and if you ventured away from the main street they ceased to bother you. Exploring Christiana, it is clear that the homes are self-built structures each one standing out from the other.

leaving the EU
The gateway to the European Union as you leave Christiana…
christiana self built house
One of the many self-built homes in Christiana, an area of Copenhagen seemingly operating outside of the rules of the city proper.

By this point in the day I was ready for Lunch, so I took a pit-stop at Morgenstedt, A cooperative veggie food cafe in the heart of Christiana. I opted for a hearty potato based soup (it was November after all) and was not disappointed.

hearty potato soup
A hearty bowl of potato and herb soup from Morgenstedt cafe in Christiana.

Now if you’ve read anything about Copenhagen, you’ve probably heard that it is somewhat of a haven for cyclist, with excellent cycling infrastructure wherever you look. Are you listening London?

I couldn’t live with myself if I didn’t test out those fabled cycle paths for myself, so I downloaded the Bycyklen app and got moving – the first thing I noticed was just how heavy the bikes are! Thankfully this heaviness comes from them being power-assisted so once you get going its really quite easy.

My interests lie in Architecture, so I did my research and discovered the Grundtvig’s Church a few kilometres north of the city centre in the Bispebjerg district of Copenhagen. The church, completed in 1940, is a rare example of expressionist Church Architecture.

inside of impressionist church
The interior of Grundtvig’s Church in Copenhagen, a rare example of Expressionist Architecture in Copenghagen.
outside of impressionist church
Grundtvigs Church exterior, the Church itself has an otherworldly character to it, almost as though it is the Architecture of a long lost civilisation.

Honourable mentions

  • The former Meatpacking district, known as Kødbyen is a must-visit for contemporary Danish cuisine and cutting-edge art galleries.
  • Telia Parken the home of F.C Kobenhavn, the main football team in Copenhagen is a stones-throw from the city centre and is accessible via the newly built metro system. The atmosphere can be electric, especially from hardcore fans in Section 12.
  • Tivoli Gardens, whilst shut in November when I visited is a coveted amusement park and pleasure garden located close to the central station.
  • Copenhagen Contemporary (CC) is the cities international art centre and showcases both gallery installations and musical performances (accessible from city centre via bus)

I plan to return in Spring/Summer at some point and see the city in full colour. Have you visited Copenhagen yourself? What were your thoughts?

1 Comment so far

  1. Pingback: Highlights of a solo-trip to Copenhagen in 2019 | Places picked by Brani

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